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Tuesday, 11 September 2012

Ynyswen Gardening Club's annual show was held last Sunday 9th September. All in all it was a really good show. Here are a few photos.

  Cyril Powell's Silver Medal entry. Pink John Wingfield, John Wingfield & Max Riley

  Brenda Davies's Floral Art

 John Oliver's Sweet Candle Carrot

 Mike Thompson's new rose 'Lowri' not yet in commerce.

 My 2nd placed John Wingfield, Millenium & Cream John Wingfield.

 Mike Davies's Dahlias


  Jim Thompson's collection.

 John Oliver's Top Tray

 My Onions

Jim Thompson's Top Tray.

Bryn Stonebridge's Yellow John Wingfield & Bronze Matlock.

 John Hobbs's Max Riley got the Bronze Medal.




Posted by: at 21:35

John Nevill's new Japs (Large Exhibition)

Monday, 27 August 2012

I thought I would show everyone the two new cultivars I am growing from John Nevill.  The first photo is already named McKinley (I believe named after the late jazz musician Muddy Waters. The second photo is a pinky coloured bloom.  I'm looking forward to seeing both of them as I've only seen photos of the pinky one. McKinley was on view at the 2011 national when John brought one along. A dark bronze incurving bloom.

Posted by: at 20:14

Chrysanthemum Progress

Friday, 24 August 2012

What a miserable summer so far, I've never rolled back the cover over Large Exhibition chrysanthemums because its rained about 3 days per week. The plants I have in my back garden have only been watered about 4 times since the beginning of June. Thankfully I have been able to give them a teaspoonful of dry base fertiliser and the rain has watered it in. Some varieties have been very yellow, showing the symptoms of iron deficiency. I mixed sequestrate of iron into the fertiliser and they have greened up recently.  Under the cover theres been no problem. I've been watering about once per week except for the odd hot spell of weather when I've watered about every third day. I used a teaspoonful of Vitax Q4 per week up to bud and I've gone on to Solufeed 3-1-3 since securing the buds. The plants look well.  It will be interesting to see how they finish up after being under cover throughout.

Here are a few photos taken today:-





Posted by: at 23:56

Budding Roses

Sunday, 08 July 2012

Every summer I like to propagate a few new rose bushes. These days I only show Miniatures and Minifloras.  My pal Mike Thompson seems to come up with a few new varieties, and he's kind enough to let me have a stem to use as propagation material.

Budding is a form of grafting using a single eye as opposed to a piece of stem as we would do in apple grafting.  I grow my miniatures in pots, so I pot up Rosa Laxa root stocks in the winter, into 3ltr deep rose pots. By June they are ready for budding.


Making the T Cut. First of all use the budding knife to gently scrape away the loose bark so that it doesn't get into the cut and prevent the cambium layers on the scion and rootstock coming together and healing to become one plant.  Then make the T cut. one inch long maximum with a half inch maximum across the top of the T.  Use the beveled edge on the back of the blade to open up the T to take the single eye (Bud)



Cutting the eye from the scion wood. First of all we need dormant eyes, so often we have to take them from wood before it finishes blooming. Varieties differ. Some varieties eyes break before blooming has finished.  I remove the thorns, and cut the leaves off but leave the leaf petiole intact so that when it comes to the time of inserting the bud, you can handle the bud by the leaf petiole.  Position your knife about a quarter of an inch above the bud and cut into the stem. Keep the blade quite shallow as you want a flat bud so that it will sit in the T cut snug and neat. Once the blade is a quarter of an inch below the bud, tear the bud downwards. turn it over and use the tip of the blade to find the end of the wood behind the bud, grip it with the blade and thumb and pull it from the bud.

The Bud.  The important thing now is that the embryo eye is still intact and didn't come away with the wood. Trim the bud to length, about three quarter of an inch.


Insert the bud.  Insert the bud, (the right way up) and if it protrudes above the T cut, trim it off and put the tie on to prevent dehydration, until the union heals.


Beheading. This takes place in February leaving the neck (Hypercotyl) eye and root system to grow into a new bush.



Posted by: at 13:33

British National Carnation Society, visit to Whetman Pinks, nr Dawlish Devon.

Friday, 22 June 2012

Margaret and I had a wonderful time at Whetman Pinks last Tuesday (19th June 2012) What a well-run enterprise Whetman Pinks is. Their commitment to keeping virus free plant material is excellent news for gardeners.  Carolyn Whetman and her team gave us a great welcome.  A welcome fit for a king.




Posted by: at 14:11

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